Elettaria

Small, busy and inventive. Chef Akhtar Nawab brings us new American cuisine with an Indian kick. The smaller bar room in the front is generally very crowded, but isn't a bad place to sit and eat if you can grab precious seats at the bar. The room in the back is too small for the number of tables that they manage to cram in, so unless you snare one of the few booths, expect to be sitting in your neighbor's lap. The food though - wow - Mom never made samosas like this before.

The best way to navigate this culinary journey is to get a whole lot of the small plate appetizers and share everything. Curried rabbit samosas and garam masala spareribs both evoked memories of home-cooked Indian food in a way that I wasn't expecting. Star anise adds an eastern touch to the cod and a hint of cardamom infuses the duck breast - it makes these dishes taste just a little different than what you're used to and what you're likely to find at any of the other dozen new American joints in the neighborhood. Nawab isn't too heavy-handed with the spices, so this isn't at all like a trip to the local curry shop. Instead, what you'll get are brilliantly executed local market favorites with a spin that sets them apart.

Cocktails are killer here, and old school. The Zombie Punch has 3 types of rum and absinthe...they cut you off after 2. Quimby Fizz and Ginger Rogers also harken back to days of yore - when apparently lime curd and egg white were common cocktail additives. As odd as they sound, there is sure to be one that fits you just right. Just be sure you can stagger out.

(Note - a nice place to stagger to is the 8th St Wine Cellar, a little wine bar across the street, great place to start or end the evening).

The Sage Questions
Date Spot? Yes
Good for Groups? Yes, with a reservation
When Parents Visit? If they're adventurous and can deal with noise
Cost? $10-$14 apps, $25 mains
Wines under $100? $12 cocktails and an extensive liquor list
Rating: 3